A road trip through the French countryside

I stepped out onto the terrace of our holiday rental in Beynac et Cazenac on our way to dinner and heard a familiar whooshing sound behind the trees. I quickly started to look around and within moments more than a half dozen hot air balloons were gently climbing into the skies from the edge of the Dordogne river. It was like the evening was coming to greet us with this beautiful spectacle which made our walk to dinner just a little more magical. I knew we wanted to find calm before the rush of September and that’s exactly what we found on our road trip through the French countryside.

There was something about this summer calling me to the mountains, to deeper experiences, away from more famous neighbouring regions. It was a bit of a risk, but one I felt compelled to take. Besides, we’d already gone to the riviera in July! In the past, especially when it was just the two of us, we’d hop in the car and see where the wind took us. With kids it’s nice to have a little bit planned so we booked the first few days in the Dordogne to places we knew the kids would love and left the second half of the trip for improvisation and adventure.

Hot air balloons & La Roque Gageac

We really tried to balance out this trip with physical activities, cultural visits and time to enjoy a little rest or unexpected adventure. I had put on my trip list to go to a Marché Gourmand! These are really typical of the Dordogne. They’re akin to food truck festival and very local but there’s a catch! You must bring your own plates and cutlery. Thankfully, my in-laws had just surprised us a few days earlier with a picnic backpack they were getting rid of. I can assure you we put it straight to work. This was one of the best and most memorable meals of the trip and perfect after our canoe trip down the river earlier in the day. The food was delicious, local and it felt very family oriented. We tucked in under some mature trees to savour our meals, sharing with one another. Jeremie and I sipped our white wine in the breeze. Just as we were finishing up and the sun was low and golden the hot air balloons made another appearance between the trees. One even came and touched down on the river delighting us all before climbing back up. I can definitely say we’d love to try this one day.

The Gouffre de Padirac

Another highlight was finally going to see the Gouffre de Padirac. After learning about it over 10 years ago I haven’t stopped thinking about it. Standing above it looking down into the giant hole is impressive but as you finally make your way down 103 meters below it’s another world that opens up. We were quietly paddled along the underground river through the vast chambers. The audioguides are great (and available in many languages) to help really bring it to life and share the history of the site. It was humbling to imagine the first explorers who discovered it. Going down into the abyss via ladder then piecing together a boat in order to continue the journey when the water became too deep. What’s more is they’re still learning about it over a hundred and thirty years later.

Salers Cows and Cantal Landscapes

Cantal revealed itself differently it’s quieter, more spacious. I worried maybe I’d be leading us astray but in reality it felt like the long exhale we all needed. The landscapes along the drive were living postcards. When our first choice hotel was booked, it turned out to be the perfect reason to pivot. We ended up in a little “roulotte” overlooking the lake. The local Salers cows were just in the distance. Their deep red hair is scruffy and wild and beautiful long horns make them instantly recognisable. As they grazed the neighbouring hills, their bells created a sweet symphony of sound. After a lovely hike through a gorge in the morning and on our way to a cheese-making atelier, we found ourselves driving at the foot of Puy Mary. This might have been volcano country, but I never anticipated we’d get to hike one! The ominous rain clouds brooding overhead, we decided to try all the same. It was an unexpected panorama stretching endlessly in every direction. My second volcano, and a first for the kids! Not bad for 5 and 7 years old! It was the kind of surprise that only happens when you let the road lead you. Then it was full immersion into the making of Tomme Fraîche cheese at a dairy cooperative. Cheese famously used in Aligot or a delicious Truffade and the kids were delighted they got to make their very own butter. The best part was that they sent us home with our hands full. Don’t worry! I’ll be sure to share some more recipes in the winter months!

When we got home my husband asked me which vacation I preferred this summer. It’s hard to choose between the sun and sea and this deep dive inland. But what I can say is that these regions did really deliver. We experienced a real richness and beauty. There were the dramatic hot air balloons, the medieval villages and castles of the Dordogne. Cantal offered the quiet rhythms, soft sounds and volcanic peaks. We were able to be present to all the unfolded, the planned as well as the unexpected.

If you’ve ever longed for a road trip through the French countryside that feels both breathtaking and deeply grounded, I might suggest Dordogne and Cantal might be waiting for you too with their rivers, markets, cows, and skies filled with balloons. I’d love to hear about what areas of the country spark your curiosity and what you love in a vacation. If you have any questions be sure to leave them in the comments or if you’d like to see some photos from our first trip to the region you can check out this post.