A weekend in Bordeaux

My parents had just flown into Bordeaux from the west coast of Canada. I opted to join them for a micro visit before they went wine tasting through the region on a river cruise. Bite sized vacations are so under rated. Planning a quick getaway is the perfect remedy for the regular routine. I’m likely to pack well in advance just out of sheer excitement. Not to mention a weekend in Bordeaux is a snap from Paris with a short train ride from Gare Montparnasse. The last couple times I always went by car but this was just SO easy. I figured if nothing else I could help them with train tickets and translation through the fog of jet lag! They’re seasoned travellers but I was eager to join in.

Bordeaux is a vibrant city that’s easy to navigate with lots to see, do and eat not to mention sip! My mom took care of getting us a hotel just off of Saint Catherines street so we were very central. We were serenaded nightly by an accordion player and I didn’t mind one bit!

Cité du Vin

Given our very short visit we hit the ground running with a visit to the Cité du vin. The museum is very interactive which teaches you about aromas, regions, wine throughout history, how it’s made and marketed. The ticket can be purchased with tastings at the rooftop bar (the Belvédère – a perched viewpoint) and I highly recommend you take the option for two glasses as they have a lovely selection that’s always changing and it’s a great little space perched high above the river. A perfect cap to the visit. Being with family we all let each sip one another’s choices. We had white and red Burgundies, a Chateauneuf de Pape and both a rosé and red Bordeaux blend from what I remember. Everything was delicious. If you’re jet lagged, a dark museum is best saved for another moment. But we worked with the constraints we had!

One thing I like about traveling with my parents is that there’s no fuss. We opted for classic French food at Bouillon Des Quinconces, with it’s typical dishes and great value. Plan to make a reservation if you want a seat as it’s a busy place. We skipped dessert as I’d planned to pick up some Canelés on the walk back to the hotel. They’re a staple in Bordeaux with a slightly crispy caramelised exterior and chewy vanilla rum centre. They date back to at least the 18th century in the convents of Aquitaine. Egg whites were used for filtering off impurities in red wines leaving many egg yolks leftover. Vanilla and rum, which had become available after the French conquest of the Antilles were added to create a custard that is baked in beeswax coated copper moulds. They’re a little divisive but try them all the same!

Arcachon and the Dune du Pilat

Soulac-sur-Mer is somewhere we love to Vacation but I’d still never been to Arcachon and the dune du Pilat (the largest coastal dune in Europe.) This isn’t ideal for a weekend trip as it’s a little rushed. BUT it was our chance to seize and seize it we did! The architecture from these old Bourgeois towns is fascinating and sea air is always good for the soul. It meant an early start to our day to take the train from St. Jean station and with it, the quiet streets of Bordeaux in golden light. Let it be said, the French rarely start their weekends before 10am so plan to get out early. It’s nice to see the city wake up.

We ate our lunch at the beach with a view before heading on a bus to see the Dune de Pilat. This was high on my list, because as a high school graduate, my first job was on the Dunes of Bouctouche in New Brunswick, the longest coastal dunes in North America.

Visiting in the off-season was ideal. Fewer crowds but also cooler temperatures, especially important when you start the uphill climb to the top. There are some stairs, but the lead up through the sand, still means a lot of leg work! Hot weather wouldn’t help. The wind was whipping but it’s beautiful to be perched up high above the coast to watch the paragliders.

Back in Arcachon we headed back to a stand selling Tissage Moutet just outside the covered market where my mom purchased a table runner. Since I initially moved to France in 2012 one of my favourite souvenirs is a good tea towel. Moutet have some great designs and they’re 100% made in France. Admittedly, I’m still thinking about them.

Final thoughts

I’m so grateful I could make the short trip south. The train ride was simple, getting around on the trams and buses was fairly seamless. The only hiccup was buying tram tickets at the Place de la Bourse, the only stop without a ticket machine. It was minor, but noteworthy. I’m already looking forward to my next visit. Of course, we did a little shopping and we caught up over a bottle of wine back at the hotel room, listening to the accordion player below. French city life can be a nice change from our rural setting. If you’ve been I’d love to hear some of your favourite places!