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Family vacation to Burgundy

view of rural burgundy from Berzé la chatel

Chasing Long Weekends in France

We love any excuse to pack our bags and head out for a weekend. May is a funny month in France with its constant stop-and-start rhythm. You’ll often find there are extended weekends where, if Thursday is a holiday, people take the Friday off too and enjoy what’s called a “pont” (bridge). At least one of these weekends gave us the perfect chance to jump in the car and head south for a family vacation to Burgundy.

Letting the Journey Unfold

My husband loves to see where the wind takes him. I found this hard for years, but I seem to be getting better at letting in a little more improvisation. I tried to research before we left, but most of what I found was a little farther than we wanted to go. So, there was a lot of unknown. For better or worse.

We drove as far as Dijon on the first day and followed the path of the “chouette” (owl) through the city, discovering landmarks and scouting out the perfect spot to sit later. Years ago, I visited the Musée des Beaux-Arts, but my husband had missed out, so we took the opportunity to visit together. The building itself is stunning, and it’s hard to believe entry is still free. I was struck by the vivid colors of the medieval art and the textures in the iconography. How it has held up so well over centuries is beyond me.

The kids’ highlight, however, was not the art. It was the air vents in the floor that made my daughter’s dress puff up, leading to uncontrollable giggles. They enjoyed the museum too, but nothing competes with the simple joy of laughter (and air) on a hot day.

Savouring Dijon

The city was at its best—alive with people, terraces buzzing with locals and tourists alike. We played tourist ourselves, picking up truffle mustard at Edmond Fallot, savoring artisanal ice cream on a little terrace while sipping local wine. It was a perfect pause before continuing south. We didn’t make it to the cité de la gastronomie but all the more reason to return!

Medieval Visit of Berzé-le-Châtel

The next day, we made a spontaneous detour to the Forteresse de Berzé-le-Châtel where a special event was underway. We thought it would be a fun stop for the kids and a chance to enjoy lunch from the food vendors without needing to find a restaurant.

The views from the hilltop fortress were straight out of a postcard. Costumed guides brought medieval life to the present with reenactments on horseback, staged battles, and even demonstrations with heavy suits of armor. It was lively, loud, and full of charm.

Adventures in Cluny

Afterwards, we headed to Cluny and stumbled on an activity for kids available at the tourist office. We were handed a little bag with maps, clues, and a vial for making a magical potion to free “Pidou Berlu” from a spell that had turned him to stone. The kids loved racing around the town, climbing the “Tour de Fromage” (cheese tower), and solving the mystery.

We also made time to visit the Abbey of Cluny, once the largest religious site in the world until Saint Peter’s Basilica was built in Rome. Founded in 910, the abbey was once known for its wealth and charity, but over time fell into debt and was eventually pillaged and dismantled stone by stone after the Revolution. It’s the kind of history that leaves you in awe. I kept thinking of the film The Name of the Rose with Sean Connery as we wandered through the ruins. History is all the more fascinating when you can step into it.

A Quiet Finish in Autun

The final day was short, but we stopped in Autun on our way north, hoping to catch a glimpse of the Roman ruins. Driving through the town, you casually pass through ancient city gates like it’s the most normal thing. We visited a local market to gather picnic supplies and ate at the Roman theater, sitting in the old stone stands with the kids.

The cathedral was beautiful too, but after several busy days and lots of walking, the kids were understandably tired. It was a quiet, simple weekend away and, despite our lack of planning, it felt like we did pretty well.

Have you explored Burgundy before? I’d love to hear what spots you discovered or what’s on your list for next time. Let’s swap stories in the comments below!

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